Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels

The Fine Jewellery, Watches and Silver Sale on 15^th March is set to be one of our most exciting yet, with the department’s highest estimated lot to date:- an exquisite very light pink diamond of 8.62 carat mounted as a pendant by Cartier, that is to go under the hammer with a pre-sale estimate of £150,000-200,000 (all figures exclude buyer’s premium).

The diamond can be viewed by appointment, and full details are available in our ONLINE CATALOGUE. However, rare coloured diamonds are not on everybody’s wish list, but plenty more beautiful jewellery lots will be on offer, including stunning pieces by Cartier and an unusual set by Van Cleef & Arpels.

A Diamond Panthère Pin, by Cartier - Estimate: £1,500-2,000

CARTIER

Maison Cartier was founded in 1847, when Louis-François Cartier took over his master’s workshop. After Napoleon’s cousin purchased a jewel from Cartier in the 1850s, the status of the house was elevated. They were now on the radar of the rich and famous worldwide. Louis Cartier (grandson to the aforementioned) joined the firm at the end of the 19^th century and facilitated an evolution that created the brand as we know it today. Around the same time, they opened a boutique in Paris, and were the first in the world to use platinum to great effect – allowing much finesse and lightness of stone setting. Their geometric designs of the early 20^th century were part of the foundations of the Art Deco movement. Boutiques in London and New York, Royal Warrants and the first wristwatch design were notable displays of innovation and success by the firm in the early 20^th century. With famous lines and designs including mystery clocks, la Panthère, the tank watch, “Tutti Frutti”, the Love range, the Trinity range and latterly perfume and handbags Cartier has evolved to become one of the most famed and sought after brands across the globe.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

With almost as long a history and standing as Cartier is the house of Van Cleef & Arpels. Founded in 1906 following the marriage of Alfred Van Cleef and Estelle Arpels, like Cartier, they made a statement with their Art Deco jewels in the 1920s, also using platinum to create fine designs that were revolutionary. They became known for designing secret watches, la Minaudière, the Mystery Setting patent, ballerina and lovebird motifs, the zip necklace, the Alhambra® and nature inspired ranges ensued along with a New York boutique and Royal patronage. In Autumn 2024 an episode of the Antiques Roadshow uncovered a ballerina brooch, which was confirmed to be from the house workshops, piquing a renewed interest in the brand. The March sale will offer one of the “good luck” designs from The Alhambra® range, in the form of a necklace and earring suite inset with mother-of-pearl (estimate: £6,000-8,000).

A Minaudière, by Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1940 - Sold for £2,000