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Art Deco Cartier Bracelet Leads Fine Jewellery, Watches & Silver Sale

13th October 2022.

An impressive Cartier Art Deco Diamond, Rock Crystal and Seed Pearl Bracelet is set to be sold in Tennants Auctioneers’ Jewellery, Watches & Silver Sale on 12th November with an estimate of £120,000-150,000 (all estimates exclude buyer’s premium). With an esteemed reputation dating from 1847, Cartier have long held a well-deserved reputation for forward thinking design and an innovative use of materials, and the brand is synonymous with style and quality. In the 1920s and 1930s Cartier produced dazzling Art Deco jewellery, focusing on clean, geometric lines, simple settings, and monochromatic tones. The present bracelet ably demonstrates their mastery of materials, combining pearls of subtly gradated hues, rock crystal, black enamel and of course diamonds.

A strong selection of fine period jewels is also on offer, with notable lots including a Diamond Plaque, (£15,000-20,000), an early 20th Century Emerald and Diamond Brooch realistically modelled as a swooping bird (estimate: £4,000-6,000), and a Three Row Seed Pearl Necklace, by repute given to English Governess Sophia Higginbotham by Tsar Nicholas I and Empress Alexandra to mark her service as a teacher of their daughter (estimate: £700-1,000). A striking Diamond Bracelet (estimate: £10,000-15,000) is joined by a Sapphire and Diamond Cluster Pendant (estimate: £4,000-6,000) and a Sapphire and Diamond Cluster Ring (estimate: £6,000-8,000), which both feature natural sapphires from Sri Lanka.

Vintage and luxury watches in the sale are led by a fine and rare circa 2012 platinum Patek Philippe World Time (ref: 5130P-001), which is on offer with an estimate of £32,000-36,000. Also of interest are a 1978 Rolex Sea-Dweller ‘Great White (ref: 1665) with ‘ghost’ bezel (estimate: £10,000-15,000), a circa 2012 Rolex GMT Master II (ref: 116710LN) (estimate: £6,000-8,000), and a circa 2010 Franck Muller ‘Long Island Crazy Hours’ (ref: 1200 CH D CD) (estimate: £10,000-15,000). The Crazy Hours design is based on the principle of jumping hours, when the hour hand jumps directly from one number to another on the hour, and the numbers are not arranged consecutively around the dial. Amongst the pocket watches in the sale is a fine and early Silver Chronometer Deck Watch, signed Parkinson & Frodsham of London, made in 1824 (estimate: £4,500-5,000).

Highlights of the Silver and Objects of Vertu section of the sale are led by three Irish 18 Carat Gold Goblets, made by Royal Irish Silver Co. of Dublin. Made in the Charles II style, the goblets all bear import marks for Sheffield Assay Office. One made in 1970 is offered with and estimate of £12,000-18,000, and two from 1972-3 are offered with an estimate of £15,000-25,000 each. Further notable gold objects in the sale include a Gold and Enamel Musical Box, with indistinct maker’s mark and probably made in Switzerland in the First Quarter of the 19th Century (estimate: £2,500-3,500), and a George III Gold Vinaigrette, probably made in London circa 1800 (estimate: £1,000-1,500).

Of particular interest is a Russian Silver and Enamel Charka, made in Solvychegodsk in the late 17th Century (estimate: £3,500-4,500). Charkas derived their form from wooden utensils of the countryside; in the early 17th century they were made in plain silver, but as the century went on the decoration became richer with the introduction of enamelling. This examples features a particular style of enamelling, distinctive to the masters of Solvychegodsk. Also of note are a George III Silver Tankard by Robert Makepeace and Richard Carter in London in 1778 (estimate: £700-1,000), A Four Piece William IV Silver Tea and Coffee Service by Richard William Atkins and William Nathaniel Somersall in London in 1833 (estimate: £1,000-1,500), which was presented by the King to Mr John Finchard, and a late 19th Century Indian Silver Hot Water Jug, possibly made by Raghaviji Mawjee or Oomersee Mawjee (or Mawji) in the Kutch District (estimate: £600-800). Of Royal interest is a Victorian Silver Plate Cake Stand by James Dixon and Sons in Sheffield in the late 19th century, which is being sold with a silver plate gong and brass vase (estimate: £400-600). The cake stand and gong were used at the wedding of Prince Edward, Duke of Kent and Katherine, Duchess of Kent. The couple were married at York Minster, the first Royal marriage there since that of Edward III, and the wedding breakfast was served at Hovingham Hall in North Yorkshire. The cake was created by York chocolatiers Terry’s, and reportedly weighed 180 pounds and was some 5 feet tall.

 

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