Antique Revival Jewellery

Antique or Archaeological Revival jewellery was enormously popular in the 19^th century and remains a firm favourite at auction today. First emerging in Italy c.1815, it sought to recreate the styles and goldsmithing techniques from the past and simultaneously created a new fashion trend.  Taking inspiration from the Etruscans, Romans, Greeks and the Byzantine Empire, finely wrought gold jewellery in simple geometric designs were embellished with textured surface patterns, fine micro-mosaics, gemstones, cameos, scarabs and enamels.

The early 19^th century saw large-scale archaeological excavations in Italy, and all manner of treasures were unearthed from tombs and ruins; a surge of Nationalism saw greater worth put on Italian cultural heritage too. This was also the age of the Grand Tour, when popular imagination was sparked these by fragments of the past being once more brought into the daylight; tourists who had visited Italy’s great ancient sights were eager to take home treasures to remind them of their visits. Thus, when Revival jewellery began to be produced there was a ready-made and engaged market.

The movement was started by the Castellani family of jewellers in Rome, who produced exquisite Archaeological Revival jewellery from 1815 onward. Their wares remain the most sought-after on the market today. The Castellani workshop sought to rediscover the complex methods used by the ancient goldsmiths to add fine gold detailing to the surface of their wares, using techniques such as filigree wire and granulation, a technique which saw tiny drops of gold added to the gold body of the jewellery. The technique was perfected by the Etruscans in the 9^th – 4^th centuries BC, but the true art of which had been since lost. The Castellani family almost mastered the technique. They did, however, discover a way to chemically recreate the rich, burnished tones of antique gold, which lent their wares a warm luminosity.

In the 1850s Fortunato Pio Castellani was joined in the business by his two sons, Alessandro and Augusto. Alessandro Castellani excelled in marketing the firm’s jewellery, both home and abroad. In c.1860 he was exiled for his political views and settling first in Paris opened a shop. A London branch soon followed, and their fame grew. Many imitators of their fine jewellery began to pop up across Europe.

Another leading proponent of the movement was Carlo Giuliano (1831-1895), a Naples-born goldsmith who moved to London c.1860 and set up a workshop selling Archaeological Revival jewellery. It is thought that Giuliano’s early years are linked with the Castellani family, however, historians disagree as what the nature of that link may be. Giuliano’s jewellery was largely inspired by the Renaissance, who’s jewellery in turn often drew on the antique. He is best remembered for his extensive and well executed use of painted enamels and his use of cabochon gems. Carlo Giuliano was succeeded by his two sons, Carlo Joseph and Arthur Alphonse after his death in 1895. From this point, pieces made by the workshop were marked ‘C&A Giuliano’.

A two examples of Antique Revival Jewellery are to be sold in the Fine Jewellery, Watches & Silver Sale on 14th November; a bracelet by Castellani, circa 1890 (estimate: £20,000-30,000 plus buyer's premium), and a hat pin by C. Giuliano (estimate: £400-600 plus buyer's premium).